Solida Chooses her Way.
Get to know Solida, from her school life to managing and designing her environmentally-conscious label as an emerging designer. Written and color grade by Vitou @Bluevellvvet
Fashion in Cambodia remains small and compact; it hasn't yet evolved into a designated spectacle for fashion lovers to tune in. And even if you want to learn more about what's going on, internet digging and a few social skills are the requirements to set you in the right scope. Despite its unpopularity in the fashion world, Phnom Penh remains a hotspot for a variety of fashion and design, from the invitation-only event of Phnom Penh Designer Week to the more low-key creative spaces, such as cafes, local shops, and student-held projects. The city is always there to inspire new generations of creatives and visionaries, which could not have occurred if the works of earlier predecessors hadn't paved the way. Whether from different views and creative processes to how each brand identifies itself, the new and old have respect for each other's integrity, intending to push fashion forward.
I came across Solida's work through a mutual follower on Instagram. The photos are a collection of newly released designs, Gentle Phantom. The collection features a long-sleeved top called ‘‘Fawn top’’, a short puffy sleeve top called ‘‘Wisp top’’. For bottoms, including a short ‘‘Bloomers’’, a skirt ‘‘Fawn skirt’’, and a one-sleeve baby doll dress ‘‘Tilly dress’’, all made from flowy cotton material. Old-timey with Victorian-esque charm and youthful flair, the collection's silhouette is a balance between fitted and voluminous. The collection's available colors are pearl and violet, inspired by the color of bruises. The ghostly tone and dehaze effect give the photos a gothic impression, combined with soft poses from the model, creating a state of whimsy and innocence under the theatrical sentiment.
I dug deeper into Lida's account, with her playful and eclectic ways of dressing–she exudes her personality from the posts she shares to her fashion designs. Having just released her collection in just a week or two, for Smack's second issue, I reached out to learn more about what it's like to be an independent fashion designer in Cambodia. We then met in a face-to-face interview at Maloop in Boueng Tumpun, a calm cafe with green scenery, truly a spot for a relaxing weekend rest, hidden away from the fast-paced city.
These days, Solida is a usual explorer of the Cambodian underground fashion scene. She is also a lover of all types of music genres, from present-day electronic and rave music of Arca, Sophie, Shygirl, Eartheater, etc, to the easy modern and classic pop of Britney Spears, Chappell Roan, and Fiona Apple. She is a believer that culture isn't just about observing because she loves to participate in activities that connect with different people and communities. She has recently gotten to attend a fashion show called “AI Couture”, a futuristic deconstructing take on fashion by Samrith Puthiseth at Connexion, a community center around Koh Pich (Diamond Island) area. She was there to support her friend Rovina, who opened the show. Solida recounts the old days when fashion wasn’t even in her vocabulary; she was just a curious kid who loved to draw and do art. Solida Sor was born and raised in Cambodia. Her first high fashion encounter was on a television program, PPCTV, back at her small bedroom around Olympic stadium “I was sleeping with my nanny, shes’s my caretaker and we always turn on our TV to look for any program and you know that PPCTV channell [...] and there is like that hour during the near evening–around 4-5 pm, they will show a fashion show, like a collection–I would just sit and watch it, you know’’. The collections that were shown are high-end luxury brands that lean toward feminine and elegant aesthetics, like Chanel or Dior, which act as a stepping stone, leading her to find unconventional and innovative designers like Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. Other than the fashion channel, animal documentaries give her a sense of comfort and warmth.
Like any creative on this planet earth, struggling with at least a few subjects is the ultimate struggle in high school/adolescence life. When it came to technical skills like “science–nothing. I hate math so much, you know–hate them” she expressed her annoyance. However, she got surprisingly good at chemistry “And, I don't know why, that is so fucking weird’’ she said and then thanked her improvement in her academic ability is because of the easy-going yet effective teaching skill from her teacher. During the last year of high school, every student, including her, barely had any time for personal and leisure, as preparing for the upcoming baccalaureate was their priority. But their study started to take a toll when Cambodia started to have COVID-19.“I try to study–you know. Extra classes, spend a lot of money, right? It's also exhausting because they kept delaying the exam day [...] even in my class, it has a lot of smart people, like they don't have the motivation to study. Like it was so stressful for everyone’’ explained her experience. Seeing the effect the disease had on students’ academic performance, the Ministry of Education, Youth and Sports made an official statement declaring an automatic pass on the upcoming exam. “I’m guilty,” she voiced her feelings about the sudden decision-making, “but I’m kinda like…YEAH!’. She felt relief from this, and so did her smart friends, who were pretty much ecstatic. After graduating from high school, she set her goal to make her study abroad dream come true as she rushed to find help applying to multiple foreign colleges. She got accepted to study in London, “that's like my dream, you know. Who will know what I’ll do there’’ she said, Sadly, she wasn't able to go because her mother’s worried about her safety. Luckily, Vancouver is her second choice because of her relatives who live in Canada. She hesitated because it isn't her first destination and culturally, she didn't feel connected “Ok, Montreal–there’s fashion there, but I gonna move there to Vancouver. People in Canada, my friends there they called Vancouver ‘lululemon island’’’ she continued “oh sure, there is like a small community there–small group of people who dress. But everywhere you see is just the Aritzia jacket with Lululemon leggings or their sports bras. Yeah, and it was so funny to me when my friends told me Vancouver is literally a Lululemon island’’ But eventually, to go is better than not to go at all; she later transferred to a Canadian college called La Salle.
School started at 8 am, and with an hour-and-a-half train ride from her house to school, she had to wake up at 5 am to catch the train. Although there were other Asian ethnicity students, it was a lonely experience, starting as the only single Cambodian on the campus. Lida has a way of presenting herself in a way that doesn't compromise her genuine authenticity–her way of dressing up acts as the signal and attraction to friends who potentially share the same interests and culture. She described her first encounter with one of her new friends, Bibiana, “ I was sitting across from her (in a color theory class), and then she was looking at me with her curious look. She looked like a kid, with her highlighted hair, her crop top, baggy jeans, and her big backpack’’ she continued, “I was like, why is this kid looking at me the whole time’’. She soon realized the reason why Indiana was looking at her because she was fascinated by the blazer she wore to class that day. Soida recounted Indiana's first impression of her: “My first impression of you is like ‘who is this girl? Why is she so fucking cool? Why is she wearing a whole ass blazer to a fucking school”. Soon, she was introduced to the other friend group.
From struggling with classes to ending up like most of the class, “When studying, I didn't know how they make garments. It was like my first time that I started sewing’’ she said. “Sure, my passion is fashion, but I don't know anything–I don't know how they're supposed to do it’’. After getting adjusted to the new curriculum, she is surprised by her excellent skill at pattern-making. She took her studies seriously, arrived at school punctually, and returned assignments on time with high regard for small details. Eventually, the graduation day came, and she got the opportunity to kick off her last school year collection. She was not sure at first because it was a non-required project, and with the other mandatory work. She made her decision to do it alongside the other students at Vancouver Fashion Week “In this industry to have to market yourself out there, you have to network a lot you have to talk to people” she explained her willingness to do it, though the labour and cost will still be on her own expense. For the last three months, she finished three looks under her name brand, Solida Studio.
Coming back to her hometown, she felt disoriented about what the next path was. She admitted she was confused “I’m sure all of us are struggling. What are we gonna do next after we graduate right? I think about that and also with the urge of wanna do something” she continued “I keep delaying but still move forward. That time I exhausted myself thinking "will this work?” with this concern she justified her worried feeling of the market her local customer as it would be small if going with the idea. However, this contemplation fueled her ambition to have a local brand here with attention to sustainability, having little to no harm to the planet, trusting that she eventually found and expanded the right audience.
Solida Studio is a rushed name; she doesn't feel satisfied enough to extend her use of it any further. “The name Solida is very common here [...]it's just a very common name. But in the country there (Canada), they didn't usually hear of it’’ Solida said while she continued reiterating her teacher and friends' pros of the name. She later changed it to “Whorl the Label” ( pronounced whirl). The word Whorl came from the word spiral, out of the spiral symbol. The symbol is based on the most recurring structure in nature, from the coil of a fern to the shape of a snail’s shell. The symbol can also be seen across different geographies and cultures, extending to all the continents. “I'm obsessed with it” She embraced the symbol. “Since I started school, it is when I develop myself, and then you find yourself, your true style. Yeah, so I’ve been ‘spiraling’ backward and then forward’’ she explained the connotation of the word and how the world symbolizes a vital inner growth of her identity. That growth journey is alongside the motion of everything along her; the earth and nature, the word spiral, for me, holds a special meaning. “It means the world moves, but somehow it will spiral backward and then go forward; it moves backward. It's like life and death, it's like spiraling. People live and then they die and then you reborn” she said. The birth and death represent her design process from the rebirthing of a collection until the death of it. “That's what spiral means to me, it just goes round and round, you know’’ she concluded. The word spiral for the symbolic sake? Sure, but for a brand name? It seems too repetitive, and so, at last, she settled down with the spiral’s synonym, Whirl, with the replacement of the latter “i” with the letter “o”. When it comes to the incorporation of the word “the Label’’, she isn't sure about it at first, as it is normally associated with the music industry, but because of its peculiar quality and the gradual approval of her friend, she decided to go with it.
Managing is one of the most important and prevalent challenges she is facing now and onward. It's any creative's dream to have freedom that enables them to make unlimited choices but to be smart at management and vigilant is what set them on a steady business path, as Solida pointed out a mistake she made while budgeting for a photoshoot “I should have been more careful of what I spend on”. The outcome was amazing, and everything came out as she imagined it, but she doesn't use that photo much as it would have been too repetitive to publish different versions of the same photoshoot on her page every time. Starting as an independent brand with progressive value, presenting to the overall consumer market that caters to cheap and easy access, heavily influenced by popular culture, her distinct way could be a break or make depending on how she does it moving forward. “I'll be honest, I feel like my target market here is so small…yeah, I don't feel like anyone would notice what I'm doing. There's no one here,” she said. However, hope lies in the way she is being captivated by the creative scene in the city “But its ok, ill just keep doing what I do because I feel like the fashion community here is growing abit. I hope people later on will realize. I’m just gonna keep doing what I do”. She feels motivated that though attracting bigger audience isn't at her reach yet but there a small group of supporter who desire her products “I was like oh my god, I’m so happy. At least I make a few sales. Its ok” she goes on “normally building a brand, it took you years”. She accepts that perseverance and consistency are the keys to success, just as she saw her friend, Kwan, the founder of Skooler Jamster, inspire her.
Coming up with concepts is also one of the two things she struggles with the most. The process isn't just coming from a bunch of inspirational pics from the internet, but most of all also the story and real-life experience that have the power to give cohesiveness to any collection. But as a person who loves dressing up and she translates that to her designs, every small and big object can be reimagined. Curiosity is her source of everything as she said, “What inspired me to dress how I am and design what I design? I don't know, I'm so grounded with nature. In a spiritual way, I'm just so inspired”. She later pointed out how the trees around her are so much more than a tree, and the movement and weirdness of something like a jellyfish can potentially spark her with new ideas. This instant burst of idea made possible “is because, when you expose yourself to your sensitivity, you just see things differently. [...] you really just have to sit down and think, look at it and really admire what is surrounding you,” she pointed out. But living in a world from traditional fashion brands keep trying to churn out products season after season to the thousands of styles being mass produced by fast fashion daily, she has the real appreciation for slow and intentional way when it come to telling her brand story “I’m a perfectionist so coming up with a concept, everytime it’s hard” she said while referring to the hardship of deciding the name for her latest collecttion, Gental Fantom. “My teacher said, ‘You are good. But you are just so slow at everything’ but that is one thing that I don't like’’ she said. “I feel like good work takes time” Quoting this, she admired and inspired by the work ethic and vision of legendary designers like John Galliano, noting his narrative approach when it comes to designing for Maison Margiela. The slow way to design meant she could access and explore different possibilities freely, potentially impactfully expand the existing ranges of the majority's taste. Going unhinged is every creative's biggest strain release, but that fantasy clashes when it comes to thinking about the commercial value. Battling and choosing between these two different pulses of constraint and unrestrained decision can have different outcomes, but having faith in her ability to resonate with her existing and potential audience, “who see you for who you are” in the future, is what keeps her moving. Being true to herself is one of the ways she can honor all the time she spends discovering herself. She asked herself, “Should I try to conform to the interests of people?’’. She continued by weighing the options and concluded, “But at the same time, that would lose value–I would lose the value of myself–I would just look like everyone else’’
Environmental awareness is the foundation of Whorl because as someone who admire fashion and has the respect for planet, she is an advocate of what she preach, from small mundane everyday decisions; be cautious even when it came to thrifting, to something more impactful like her own brand, the goal is to make less harm as possible. Starting in the industry where it is a daunting experience facing big corporate companies, and with the cheap already-made product covering the fast fashion ranges surrounded by the recklessness of consumerism, her brand ethos is inherently building on long-term solutions for those who are like her, actively seeking a change. “The buyer, I just wanted them to buy it and actually wear it everywhere, it doesn't matter if just at home or you just going to hang out with your friend–just wear it occasionally, I don't want you to just save this outfit for a special occasion’’ she continued “if you want to wear it today, wear it today. It doesn't matter. I want them to buy and wear it till it falls apart” she notes on the important of cherishing the product you bought. “That's what I mean when I say sustainability, I don't want overconsumption and not planning to wear the clothes you bought” she said. Though having this awareness isn't inherent, like everything in life, she came to learn slowly, and with this, fashion revealed to her that not all aspects of it are glamorous. “But, before I'm also like that. I'm overconsumed, and I don't even know what fast fashion is; that's a voluntary decision. Since I was in high school [...] in Cambodia, I didn't know stuff, I didn't know anything. When I started studying (college), and then they started to tell me, when I was informed about the topic, and I suddenly understood. It is indeed really bad for the industry and the world in general. I realized how bad it is and then I stopped supporting just anything fast fashion” she said while highlighting the importance of having the ability to critically think and make decisions because no matter how small or big your spending habit is, every way affects the planet. That realization of a new principle would be set in stone for the rest of the things she would do now and in the future. In the future, she will consider having clothes displayed at local and international boutiques, and when she can produce more designs, she may consider opening her store.
Advice for young designers and one that could apply to herself is to always have that thirst to explore more, whether it comes to the culture, the history of one country, taking pride in what the world has given us, and turning it into art. She saw the value of how art can bridge people's connections, whether coming from whatever type of background, and she used that fact in her ability to connect her design with people. Her tight support system is also the one that pushes her days in and days out, and especially in this industry, it can be a lonely place. “It's important to have friends to support you. To have community,” she said. “Those are the people who pushed me here today. If I'm doing this all by myself, I don't think I'm going anywhere. You know?”.
Talking with Soldia gave me a deep sense of hope that even if our journey moves slowly, righteously, even through doubt and uncertainty, ultimately continuing with the right conviction within your passion is what leads you to your own meaningful path. We hugged, and I split my way to my Moto, and she headed to her tuk-tuk. I complimented her outfit once more, especially her mermaid scale jelly high heels.