A Chat With Fashion Design Maverick, Kwan
A trip to Skooler Office offered an insight to a designer and entrepreneur life.
It's 2pm and about to turn 3, 271st street, Khan Chamka Morn, Phnom Penh. Small building facing the city bustling road, hidden in its own solitude on the second floor, makes up a small coffee/communal space, Skooler Office. White “Skooler” logo is read on a black door. Before I could reach for a camera to document, I was unexpectedly greeted by the brand owner himself, Kwan. With his signature black mask, faintly welcoming me, he omitted his sweet and reserved nature. On my top right wall, a huge and sharp logo draped with metal chains overhead ready-to-wear rack, the place filled with personal decoration and cool knick-knacks. Have you ever heard the saying that home is a reflection of you? A word put to action came by-products of his personality exuded in Kwan’s ethos for authenticity, one can come to find in every corner. I sat on a small bench near the main room to burn the sienna leather couch. It seems like now, I myself have taken on the role of intruder as the staff is fulfilling orders and Kwan standing in front of a phone answering fashion questions. Jose Hoem, his friends and work as a model who have been working with Cambodian designer Oliva Kong and 2nd runner up for Cambodia's Queen Of The Catwalk. “Ok, again *hahah*” they utter
ed after being unable to stop cracking a laugh during filming. One by one, accessorised with quirky elements: “So today I'm wearing a custom shirt by Skooler, jorts by Skooler, Goyard (bag) and with accessories, Labubu…”
Kwan with his love and purpose for exploring fashion formed over 12.5k followers, collaborating with creators across social platforms in or out of the scene, making him quite a figure amongst the youth fashion community. Behind the scenes dump are being shared by him or his friends; attending shows, fashion events, coffee making, with his established following he makes it his entrepreneur opportunity. He has built 5 brands over the years attracting audiences with his same shared aesthetic and art.
After a while, Kwan and Jose finish their video. Their timing and joyful reaction would later grant him to move to the next task. Now me and Kwan sit together on the same bench, he slowly moves the curtain that drapes around the curved tension bar, closing down the outside atmosphere. Dwindles of noise and distraction cast our anticipation–for 20mn Kwan delivers his life story, how he comes to meet the world of designing and his method to running businesses.
Smack: How are you feeling?
Kwan: I'm feeling kinda nervous *giggle* but it's okay. It's fine-
Smack: Really?
Kwan: Yeah.
Smack: Can I ask you what you did before I came here?
Kwan: Just before here? Just like for the content, for her content.
Smack: For her content.
Krewk wan: Yeah
Smack: O-K! Soo, can you introduce yourself, what can I call you?
Kwan: So my name is Kwan, I studied and graduated in L.A, California and I graduated in 2022, so I'm a fashion designer.
Smack: Wow, fashion designer. Ok, so what's the school?
Kwan: Uhh, FIDM (Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising)
Smack: FIDM, I have never-
Kwan: Yeah, it's like uhh fashion industry uh management in L.A I guess and something like that, I don't know what is the full name, just like a short name FIDM *chuckle*
Smack: oh and tell us how you get into designing, is it like something you birnes with or is it something you learn as it goes?
Kwan: Yeah, I don't know, the thing is before, before I started in fashion; I decided to be a singer or something. So at that time my voice and everything was not good so I switched the university to fashion school. Like fashion is choosing me, not me choosing fashion.
Smack: Ok so like before you actually sing
Kwan: No, I'm planning
Smack: Planning!
Kwan: Planning to be a singer, yes.
Smack: Ok, so what age were you planning?
Kwan: Graduate, no actually like finished highschool. Hmm, no actually since I was a kid. Yeah since I was a kid, I just wanna be a singer. Yeah, I just wanna be like a spotlight or something like that. But right now I just feel like I cannot. *Hahahaha*
Smack: Ok, can you like sing *now* ?
Kwan: No, I can't. *Laugh*
While we talked, clients and Kwan's friends started to show up more and more, the place was more packed than before. Friends found a comfortable spot, a few took space on the floor 2-3 feets away from us while a few of his clients propped down beside us on a L shaped brown leather couch. With only one helper, Kwan still manages and is responsible for some tasks of running the cafe smoothly. Barista asking him for specific amounts of ingredients, handling the making of more complex drinks (e.g cocktails etc) and friends needing him for objects are typical.
Smack: Let's go to Skooler, so why do you want to create Skooler?
Kwan: So when I started school. I only studied 2 years. When at that time, when I'm studying in year 1, they focus on styling more. When the second year, they wanted me to create a brand. so when I came out with Skooler; I was like ‘Oh, school’ yeah and then it just like random like oh, like make something cooler, like Skooler. But it cannot be just like school. That's also how I started Jamster, my english name is Jam, my america name is Jam.
Smack: Your American name is Jam.
Kwan: Actually I was borned in L.A.
Smack: Oh- you borned in L.A?!
Kwan: Yes.
Smack: Oh my god.
Kwan: And then like my family is like people who themselves are in *from* the Pol Pot regime. (Local who witnessed the Khmer Rouge regime)
Smack: Oh woww.
Kwan: So my family moved there since my grandpa and stuff.
Khmer Rouge (1975-1979) left 3 millions people dead and its survivors with scar and trauma of its past, considered one of the most tragic and brutal Cambodia history. Kwan’s family is one of the lucky families amongst a few other refugees who were able to escape and settle in America before the closing of transportation in 1975. After the fall of regime 1979 and until 1993, instability in national politics resulted in over 150,000 refugees.
Smack: When do they come back, in what year?
Kwan: Uhh, 2005, uhh when I was around 6-7 years old.
Smack: Oh, so your first language is English and when you come to to-
Kwan: Ehh, I don't know…
Smack: No?!
Kwan: At least kinda, it's like, when I was young in America, my grandma spoke Khmer.
Smack: Ok, so how was the culture there while you lived in America?
Kwan: I live in like in Asian, Asian market, so there are like- *paused*
Smack: Khmer community.
Kwan: Khmer community, but for culture I don't really know much because I was only there 5 years or 6 years I guess, just a kid still.
Smack: ok so when you live with your family, you see like different cultures and when you're out, you still see the same culture or what?
Kwan: Yes, it's still the same.
Smack: Still, the same. Wow. Oh also when you come to Cambodia, when you are 6 years old. Can you compare here and L.A?
Kwan: who remembers… *said faintly*
Smack: Don't remember???
Kwan: Don't remember. *Haha*
Smack: Oh my god.
Kwan: I'm actually 2 years later while enrolling in Khmer school. So, I was actually supposed to graduate since 2016 but I graduated at 2018 so it's 2 years.
Smack: Ok so you are 2 years late, but it's ok for you right?
Kwan: It's okk.
Smack: Ok so you need to go back to America to study at L.A again, is that right?
Smack: Ok so you need to go back to America to study at L.A again, is that right?
Kwan: Yes, well actually first I'm planning to study at Cambodia, studying at Raffle but at that time I study for only 1 month and I cannot study so I stop and then I moved to study for 1 and a half year and then civud happens. So during COVID I come back to Cambodia and studying online.
Smack: Oh wow so COVID actually impact your study.
Kwan: Uh huh, but the thing is yeah, I like to learned more at school.
Smack: I want to ask you why you want to moved to *choose* L.A to persue your studying?
Kwan: Ohh, I think like, when first thing, I the moment when I study fashion, I just wanted to go Vietnam but I cannot speak Vietnamese. they talko alot of Vietnamese in the school.
Smack: Oh okay.
Kwan: oh well actually when I finished studying (Khmer school) I wanted to go study at Vietnam. But I think at that time they don't speak a lot of English, at that time I think it's like 2018. I think English is better when I'm studied, I'm sacred that I won't get along well with the others so I go to L.A plus there are my grandma so-
Smack: Ok, so you can meet your family there too.
Kwan: No actually only my grandma yeah, also my uncle but here my parents move to Khmer.
Smack: But like you still missed your grandma.
Kwan: Uhh, kinda kinda… *giggle*
Smack: *haha* Ok Skooler, when I looked at your Instagram account. You say you are (mentioned in bio) art space, community, office something like that. I want you to describe it by yourself-
Kwan: There are 3 brands. So I can describe the whole 3?
Smack: All 3.
Kwan: So for the Skooler Jamster, it's product for your closet brand, so basically clothing. My inspiration are from Punk mixed with vintage, so it's not relates to Khmer traditional (fashion). I created Skooler Office, it's like a coffee shop for when you drink that coffee its like a community for young generation, just for the fashion kids, just come and chill - right?
Smack: Yes! That's good-
Kwan: Oh, you're so fake hahaha.
Smack: No, not fake, I'm speaking for real!
Kwan: Just kidding, just kidding! *Jokingly defence himself* Oh, it's like for when people come, they can come and enjoy, talk to eachothers and yes it's good for like you share something to other and they share something to you. Just like to meet new people and be friend.
Smack: yeah, understand.
Kwan: And one more, I just created Jamster Garage.
Smack: What's that?
Kwan: It like collaboration with brands all together.
Smack: Oh wait, because when I say your Instagram (of Skooler Office) stories, It has like something Carry Couture (purse brand) and then Gita something (nail art brand) they are like-
Kwan: It's not my brand.
Smack: Yeah
Kwan: It's my friend’s brands, to put it on display for sale.
Smack: It's for uhmm, Skooler Garage? *Misinterpreted brand name*
Kwan: Yeah Jamster, Jamster Garage.
Smack: Ok, I just want to know that your clothes, throught the years, you make how many designs?
Kwan: I think it's more like a month, I changed around 5 designs or 6 designs or 10 looks. Something like that, for the ready to wear. For fashion show we normally have to take to time to be like storyline, prepare fabric, color tone and everything, so it's gonna take a lot of time. So I focus on ready to wear alot more.
Smack: Oh, I get it. I think Skooler like as any others fashion brands is really hard and to be in Cambodia, especially harder.
Kwan: Yeah.
Smack: So I wanted to asked you, what motivate you to create fashion branding Cambodia?
Kwan: I think like I have a type of target already, like customer, the royal customer they come and buy clothes, so at that time I just wanna show the creativity. Yeah just like to sell for fashion kids or something like that but the main point that I earn money is from like rich family, like wealthy individuals. Wealthy kids, or kid from power background anything like that, we do custom made. We have to decide the vibe for them, like (whether) it is casual or vintage or something like that or like rich vibe.
Smack: Rich- vibe.
Kwan: It's modern, yeah it's kinda elegant but in vintage way.
Smack: But still your style-
Kwan: No.
Smack: No?
Kwan: It's like custom made.
Smack: Ok so when a client wants to do a dress, you just go with the client initaila vision?
Kwan: Yes, like for the custom made.
Smack: Oh so like you don't show a piece of like your creativity.
Kwan: No, I don't show it, because if I show, I take more money.
Smack: Oh ok.
Kwan: It's like, if I do that- Ok so they have something in mind too so to give that much so I tend to so what they already wanted. If like we cannot give them that, If they want a dress, they want a dress that we both have established on the price and put effort exceed beyond that so we will lose money.
Smack: Ok I see your point. So for your ready to wear, it made to order right?
Kwan: Yeah, made to order. Some are made for the ready to wear for sell.
Smack: Oh so you don't produce alot of pieces.
Kwan: Oh yeah, I produce alot of pieces but only one piece per design and if it is sold we don't make it anymore.
Smack: Ohhh-k.
More of his friends started to show up who also worked in the same fashion fields and if not, at least in some ways are knowledgeable enough about the activity. They come to greet Kwan and look for something. The place was more packed than 10 minutes before I interviewed him. Groups are widening themselves, as this would be a networking haven for any fashion lovers alike. The place is becoming more of the adjective he has been describing about this cafe. At first glance they are shy and focus on their own self and their familiar groups but as soon as you invite yourself for a convo they would loosen themselves for the very opportunity of small talk. So my advice is; if you go to Skooler cafe please have the courage (this applies to any other social places); don't be hesitant to say hello to Kwan and the people there as they are happy to connect and share their fashion experiences.
Smack: Ok let's get to the important question. So like you can continue *hehe* (making customer orders) what do you want to impact in Cambodia with your design, your café, your Skooler space for this generation?
Kwan: *hesitant* Yeahh I think I don't know. I think it would give the creativity, if they want to learn about the fashion or something, we can show to them like you get advice or something like that. But we can make a new friend, chill like that. But I don't know, talking about impact for everyone in Cambodia, I don't know what to do. I don't know. I just make clothes-
Smack: *Chuckle* You just wanna make clothes for fashion and cool kids.
Kwan: Yeah and earning money also.
Smack: Got it, ok last question-
Kwan: Ok, HURRY UPP!
Smack: *Hehe*
Kwan: Ok, ok *hehe*
Smack: Ok, advice?
Kwan: For the advice, I think people should show their own creativity. The advice is kinda a lot. I think I'm not old enough for giving advice that much so I think yeah you would like be yourself. Like everything that you do is skill. Oh like actually you should do everything that you want to do now, like in the future, when we are older, we can see when we look back and we (could have) do this, do that. something like that I don't know, like you ever heard that kind of advice?
Smack: Yeah, I have.
Kwan: Yeah, you can show that we do everything (we want), but for the good advice you take but for the bad- and plus when they put you down, you should not take it.
Smack: Ok- got it.
Kwan: Just be your ownself. Fashion-is never-die, so-
Smack: Ok, that's it.
Kwan: Thank you so much! Now may I please excuse myself to make a cocktail for my customer.
After that we gave each other a thank you hug as he headed to his workstation. I got up to explore the place as I skirted my way through a small crack, excusing Kwan’s friends who were still sitting on the floor socialising with each other. Sometimes later the sound of vintage song, my camera snapshots documenting the scenes, some were scrolling on their mobile, and others lounging preoccupied their card game and the others were talking–I found myself on the mezzanine. The space is half smaller compared to the café’s lower floor, the space is intimate and cosy in its own way. Overhead a mattress on my left-hand side hung a wire grid board display purses from Carry Couture (IG: carry__couture) and in front of me are nail extensions hand designed by Gita (IG: icy.gita) all are local brands in collaboration with Kwan’s brand, Jamster Garage.
As I observed them, unknowingly who she was, the designer of the nail art approached with a smile. As I was intrigued, through our brief mutual connection, my curiosity got me to learn her story.
“ I’ve been in Phnom Penh for two weeks’’ she told me, since this article was released it's now rounding up to over three weeks. Gita who had a pop up at Stable café, now is currently at Skooler Office. During our interactions, thankfully to the designer spokesperson, Isa helped excavate some Gita nervous emotion. For clear and needed information, she would later provide them through her voicemail.
Gita traveled 400 km all the way from her hometown, Poi Pet to the city for her most important goal to showcase her creativity and craftsmanship. Her love of nail tech and design came from her daily tasks of helping around her mother salon, her knowledge from her mom now has given the opportunity to create her own independent brand under the name of Icy.Gitaa. Now the brand has been two years old, as a nail artist she draws inspiration from Punk and Gothic and modernized it with a youthful yet still edgy approach. With our still small community of nail artists, she wanted to appear to the large demographic of people who haven’t yet discovered the artistry value, grabbing individuals attention to her unique imagination and interpretation for nails. “I have seen nail beauty industry- is an industry that when people see it, they think it is easy, it don't take a lot of effort, no vale, or it's just simple ordinary things” she later told me via voicemails “so that's why I want to create nail art that when people see it, they would say ‘wow, nail also can be perceived as art, nail have value, nail are cool’”
Her love for nail art also comes from consuming and researching Australian nail artists on the internet. Looking through everyday objects, she used her creative lens to seek new possibilities from unconventional art material which then brought to be desirable objects after hard work and patience. “ The reason I loved nail art; I myself am the person who loved art. Is something that you can imagine making something that you haven't done before. everything that have potential, we can create/recycle them”she continued “plus I born in a nail industry, my mom have career in so I wanted to take that opportunity as something I wanna showcase that to people”
Coming down, the space still looked busy as always but now Kwan is sitting on the floor with his friends. After a brief time spent in the cafe, I signaled Kwan for my leave, a second thank you hug was given, and now good-bye–i found myself out the door.
